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| Archived Everest News: April
18 - April 20, 2004 |
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| High Camp 1...and Back to Base Camp. Wednesday, April 28, 2004 Update by Heather Ulrich I spoke with Marshall briefly last night, and only have a couple of minute to do a QUICK update, but wanted to let you all know that Marshall and Dmitry did make it up to High Camp 1 and spent the night there on Sunday, April 25. The next day, Marshall descended safely...all the way to Base Camp (BC) in one shot!! No surprise to many of you know Marshall. He has been resting at BC since Monday, April 26, and reports feeling great! His pulse ox continues to be the highest on the team whenever they measure it - yesterday it was 88, an almost normal reading for sea level...and he's at 17,100 feet at Everest BC. We did not get a chance to talk about if, or why, the Italians left the mountain, but he did say that he's pretty certain as to which of the three Sherpas he will probably use on his summit attempt. He HAS been writing for all of you everyday, but has not been able to get anything e-mailed out over the satellite phone. When he does, you'll have over a week's worth of reading to catch up on! The plan is for the team to go to IBC today, then on to ABC where they will spend a couple of days. Then, on to High Camp 1 (again for Marshall and Dmitry, for the first time for the the rest of the team), possibly on May 2. If weather is good, Marshall and Dmitry will then continue on to High Camp 2 (25,400 feet), possibly on May 3, where they will spend one night, while the rest of the team will descend to BC. Marshall and Dmitry will follow on back to BC a day behind the rest of the team. More Later I *should* be able to do updates for all of you here on the Web site, technology permitting, from my temporary remote site. If I am unable to provide updates here, I WILL at least send group e-mails to many of you. If you don't read anything here until May 12...don't be alarmed! It's just a "technical difficulty."
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ABC to High Camp 1...for Some. Sunday April 25, 2004 Update by Heather Ulrich I just received a very short call, again via satellite phone, from Marshall. He was at ABC (21,450 feet) preparing to leave for High Camp 1 (23,000 feet)!
Some Go Up, Some Go Down As reported, the team arrived at ABC on Thursday, April 22. For the last few days they've been working at setting up camp and taking a few acclimation hikes up the North Col to the headwall. In a voice report his Web site David reported that they set up the huge ABC tent and the generator, so they should have power.
Image of ABC in 2001, after a storm. (Photo
Credit: Adventure-video.com from the
David also explained in a voice report that the cost for ropes along the route would be $50/person on each team to support a combined Sherpa effort to set ropes – plus an additional $150/person, which could be paid in cash, rope, Sherpa power, or pickets. A few days ago Alex reported on mounteverest.net that, "Last year, the cost was 20$ per climber and this year it will probably be 200$ per climber. Climbing is very expensive." I guess he was right! Marshall told me that Vladimir had climbed to the top of the headwall and reported that "the ropes are very good – solid and new." Yesterday, Saturday April 24, five members of the team decided to descend to BC. Today, three additional members of the team have decided to descend to BC as well. As Marshall explained, "Everyone is feeling some symptoms from the altitude, which is to be expected, which is why the majority of the team decided to go down lower." He emphasized that no one was seriously ill, but simply made personal decisions about what they believed would be best for them and their process of acclimation.
The remaining two members of the team, Marshall and Dmitry, have decided to continue on to High Camp 1 today, and plan to spend one night there. If they succeed in their goal for the day, this will be another personal high-altitude record for Marshall, as the camp is a bit higher than the 22,840-foot summit of Aconcagua.
You may remember, from his April 11 posting, that Marshall described Dmitry as "a bit older (although, in truth, Marshall is the oldest member of the team!) and was on last years' expedition. He was not able to summit last year, but is back again for another try. He stands tall – at over 6' – and has a bit of a belly, which may be a good thing, as many people loose up to 25 pounds on the mountain. He is very intelligent and organized and, having guided, is bound to be a stabilizing force during the expedition." I'm sure Marshall and Dmitry will make a good team for their climb to High Camp 1.
After spending the night at High Camp 1, Marshall and Dmitry plan to descend the following day (April 26) back to ABC and spend the night there. If all goes well, they should return to BC on April 27.
Health Update Marshall reports that he feels "really, really good. I'm eating and sleeping well, and my lungs are clear. Of course, it's hard to move at this altitude but, really, I feel exceptionally well. Actually, I'm quite surprised." In a voice update on his Web site, David reported that Marshall's pulse ox (the level of oxygen saturation in the blood) was "up in the 70s, so he's very strong." You may remember that Marshall discussed this oxygen saturation test in his April 17 update saying, "Oxygen saturation is an indicator of how well one is dealing with the altitude—the higher the number, the better. At sea level, the number should be well into the nineties. A number of 70 or better is considered optimum for climbing. Between the four of us, our oxygen saturation ranged from 75 to 90. I was thankful to have the highest number." From my perspective, he sounded better today than when I talked to him on Thursday. You couldn't hear every breath, and his mind seemed clearer and more focused. All good news!
So…When Will You Get Actual Updates Written by Marshall? David, the other American on the team who works for explorersweb, and is helping Marshall with the e-mail and satellite phone technology, is one of the members that will be descending to BC today. David is bringing Marshall's daily updates (from April 21 through April 24) with him, and will try to e-mail them out tonight or tomorrow morning. I will endeavor to get everything posted as soon as possible, as I know that many of you have been following – and I believe enjoying – Marshall's writing.
And…What are the North Col and the Headwall Exactly? In his book, "The Other Side of Everest – Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm" (a book I highly recommend, by the way, as I believe it is one of the most honest stories of Everest I have read, and is one of the few I've been able to find about climbing Everest from the north side), the author, Matt Dickinson, described the importance of the climb from ABC to High Camp 1, crossing the North Col, as follows. "Of the acclimatization stages…the North Col was the most important and most committing test to date. For the first time, we would be moving on steep ice, using crampon spikes on our boots and following…fixed ropes."
Climbers approach the North Col on Everest (Photo Credit and Copyright: Eric Simonson Collection, International Mountain Guides) In his book, Matt Dickinson described leaving ABC as follows.
"…we filed off the rocky moraine onto the permanent ice of the glacier. We kept to the right, beneath the Northeast Ridge of Changtse…Before the Col, the terrain evens off into a gently sloping ice plateau that fills the rounded valley end, marking the southernmost extension of the East Rongbuk Glacier. In this natural amphitheater sound bounces back and forth from wall to wall and even a kilometer away from the Col I could hear the calls of the Sherpas as they climbed."
"From a distance, the ice wall is impressive; seen from its base it is little short of terrifying. The wall stretches up to the sky…The first stage was one of the steepest, a physically demanding pitch…The fixed ropes stretched on interminably, snaking up between two bulging flanks of ice and then disappearing…Before reaching (a)…forty-nine foot high ice pitch that was undoubtedly the hardest section of the climb." Finally, above the headwall there is a "slope, the final pitch before the more gentle traverse that would bring us onto the Col itself and welcome sanctuary of (High Camp 1)." As close as I can figure, it took Matt Dickinson at least 8 hours to travel from ABC to High Camp 1. High Camp 1 on the North Col of Everest at 23,000 feet (Photo Credit and Copyright: Eric Simonson Collection, International Mountain Guides) I hope that helps a bit in giving you all a picture of what Marshall's day may be like. Please keep Marshall and Dmitry, and everyone on Everest, in your thoughts and prayers.
Other News Want to hear Marshall 's voice? And David's too? Check out David's Web site. Select "click for voice dispatch" for a message from David and Marshall at intermediate BC on April 21, and the other voice dispatch links for message from David.
For more news from Alex at ABC, see this story about Alex on mounteverest.net.
You can also read dispatches from Alex and David here. Our thanks to all of you for your support of this effort, and the fundraising! It means a lot to both of us...more than we can say.
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Moving Up the Mountain. Wednesday, April 21 – Thursday April 22, 2004 Update
by Heather Ulrich I just received a call, via satellite phone, from Marshall at Advanced Base Camp (ABC)! He reports that he's “feeling great” and will try to catch up on his updates to all of you in the next day or two. In the meantime, here's a report about Marshall and the team for the last couple of days.
BC to IBC As scheduled, the team left Base Camp (BC) on Wednesday, April 21 and head up to Intermediate Base Camp (IBC), at 19,800 feet, where they spent the night. This is the highest altitude to date that Marshall has slept , as the last camp on Aconcagua is at about 19,000 feet (the summit of Aconcagua is 22,840 feet). This is all unbelievable to me, as the highest I've ever been, and just for a one-hour visit, is the summit of Kilimanjaro at 19,340 feet.
No reports on how the yaks are doing, but I'm sure they passed their fair share of yak “signs” along the way.
IBC to ABC This morning, April 22, Marshall recorded the temperature in the tent vestibule as -5ºF, so he estimated that it at least -10ºF outside. The team packed up and headed out of IBC towards ABC, at 21,160 feet. The Russian/German member of the team, Vladimir Gaidamak, who will attempt to summit without oxygen (he attempted this last year too, making it to about 26,000 feet before being turned back by weather) made the trip from IBC to ABC in about 3 hours. Marshall made it in about 3.5 hours. Many other members of the team took 6 to 7.5 hours. I reminded Marshall that it's not a race! But, it's hard to take the competitive nature out of a person that's been racing for more than 20 years! However, Marshall did comment that he “won't push as hard in the future,” and will save his “strength for the summit push.”
An image of the climb between Intermediate ABC to ABC in 2004 (Photo Credit: David Tait, from explorersweb) You may remember that Vladimir was Marshall's roommate in Katmandu, where they struggled a bit to communicate, as Marshall doesn't speak any Russian or German, and Vladimir speaks very little English. On the mountain, I'm sure there's a different level of communication.
At ABC With the rather rapid ascent, Marshall said that he was “pretty hammered” but “recovered well.” That his head and lungs are clear, and that he really does feel great. He said a couple members of the team are feeling the effects of the climb and the altitude a bit more than others, but all-in-all, everyone is doing well. They spent the rest of the day setting up tents, with snow blowing in around 3 p.m., leaving about 3 to 4 inches of snow over the next few hours. When the sun went down, the temperature dropped, and Marshall reported that, at about 10 p.m., the temperature was around -20ºF. Thank goodness for a quality down sleeping bag from The North Face!
I asked him about the reports of ABC being crowded, and he responded that it's not as crowded as last year (according to some members of the team that were there in 2003 as well). However, he and Dave, the other American on the team, estimated that there are probably about 100 tents at ABC. Marshall didn't seem too concerned as he said, “you have to remember…a lot of these people won't make it to the top.” While we would never wish anyone bad luck, let's hope there aren't “crowds” of people delaying everyone's ascent as all of the teams work their way to the summit, as those delays can cause serious concerns.
Tonight, Marshall will set another “personal attitude overnight record” by attempting to sleep at 21,450 feet. Remember, no oxygen yet—that doesn't come until High Camp 2 at 25,400 feet.
The Plan – if that's really possible on Everest The next two or three days the team will remain at ABC setting up camp and continuing to acclimate. Those that feel well will then continue on to High Camp 1, at 23,000 feet, perhaps on 25th , where they would spend one night. Then, they will return to BC to rest for 2 to 3 days. Then…the process will start all over again—BC to IBC; IBC to ABC; ABC to High Camp 1; then, hopefully High Camp 1 to High Camp 2 at 25,400 feet. After that, the plan is to descend back down the mountain, even lower than BC, into town. Maybe Alex will purchase another goat to butcher, cook-up, and serve the team! The “Extreme Chef” does have a reputation to live up to, after all! After the rest at the lower altitude, the summit push will hopefully commence.
Of course, there's a lot of time between now and then, everything will be dictated by health and weather! Not to mention by the mountain herself. News from Alex Speaking of Alex, the head of the team, some of you may have read his dispatches on mounteverest.net. I thought it was pretty funny when he reported, on April 13, 2004, that “Luda Koshelenko will be our BC chef and she bought aprons and over sleeves for the BC cooks. All the Sherpas were rolling with laughter.” Everest doesn't seem like the place for such formality.
On a more serious note, when he arrived at BC on April 16, he reported, “And now we can admire the greatness of Everest. It is overhanging and it seems to ask: "You are here, for what have you come again?" What can I answer: "I have come to you as an old friend."
Let's hope that the friendship remains a mutual one, and that Chomolongma will watch over the entire Russian Adventure Team, and everyone who asks her permission to be in her presence.
For the complete story from Alex, as well as some of Dave's reports from the mountain, see the story at http://www.mounteverest.net/story/AbramovsEverestForwhathaveyoucomeagainApr212004.shtml
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Base Camp, Tibet. Tuesday, April 20, 2004 Our
Route
To clarify a little bit about our route, we will be climbing from the northern (Tibetan) side of Mount Everest along the north ridge/northeastern ridge route. There are seven camps along this route divided between lower camps (BC, intermediate ABC, and ABC) as well as the three high camps. Here's the naming convention I will use, and some general information about each camp along our route.
Above High Camp 3, on the way to summit, are the First and Second Steps, similar to (although more technical than) the famous “Hillary Step” on the south side route. Both Steps on the north side route require fixed ropes and some technical climbing skills. The Second Step, in particular, is considered one of the most difficult challenges on summit day when ascending from the north. The summit of Mount Everest is 29,035 feet!
Puja The
day started with and early breakfast for the team. Then the Lama arrived
from the Rongbuk Monastery. The Puja (blessing) that he performed was
wonderful. During the ceremony, prayer flags attached to a pole on the
hill just above our camp fluttered in the breeze, with the clear blue
sky and Everest as the backdrop. As
the lama chanted prayers and blessings, he intermittently tossed rice
and corn flour into the air, rang a bell, and twisted a drum like instrument
with a ball attached that would beat on one side then the other. During
the ceremony, ravens and crow few overhead and landed within 40 feet of
the ceremonial site. I am a bit superstitious, and took this as a very
good sign. A
Sherpa raising prayer flags during a (Photo credit: explorersweb files) Time
to Pack – and Think
The
Russian Adventure Team - Everest 2004 Photo credit (David D'Angleo for explorersweb)
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Base Camp, Tibet . Monday, April 19, 2004 Delays
and Patience
A
Tour of Base Camp
The Russian National Team is across the valley, while just next to us is a large British contingency of about 20 climbers. Next to the entrance of BC is a large Indian expedition sitting next to a very small (maybe 8-member) Japanese expedition. There are two or three other expeditions that are of unknown origin, one of which must be the Chinese, as they are here every year. A
fresh dusting of snow at our "home" (Photo credit: Marshall Ulrich)
My guess is that about 70 percent of the people on each team are permitted to go to the top of Everest. The others are mostly permitted to go to the North Col at about 22,000 feet. While it seems like a lot of people, Alex assured us that there are not nearly as many people here as there were last year.
The Russian Adventure Team Our group is at the far end of camp, closest to the mountain. While I know I'm biased, I believe that our group is the best on the mountain! It's a class act. Funny how we Americans viewed the Soviet Union and the people during the “cold” war—these guys have big hearts and great senses of humor. I also really enjoy the Italians, as they are a lot of fun to be around.
Our camp is now set up and fully functional. We have communication via hand held two way radios, satellite phones (about three different varieties), and BC radio communications 24-hours a day.
Watching
the Russians, I am growing more confident in their abilities. They are
very serious about climbing, but don't take themselves too seriously.
When a problem arises they take it in stride and handle it without dramatics.
It is, for them, simply a matter of solving the problem. It makes me appreciate
who they are and their strength of character. They are full of tradition
and extremely proud of their country. Some of them perceive the United
States as a fragmented country with no real roots, which has been lost
by "westernization." It is always good to hear the thoughts
of opinions of people from around the world, opening up my mind to alternate
ways of looking at things. Earlier
today, the yaks that will carry our gear up to ABC were resting just in
front of my tent. They are amazing creatures which look to weigh about
600 to 900 pounds each. They have bells around their necks which the herders
use as to locate them when they're out grazing. They can be heard making
their
They are saddled with a stick-like frame over a saddle blanket of sorts that will allow them to carry up to about 90 pounds each. All of our personal and team gear will weigh about two tons and it will take almost 50 yaks to carry it up to ABC. Once they drop their loads at ABC, the herders will simply let them make their way back to BC and down the Rongbuk glacier where they can graze below.
Caution and Respect I'm amazed every time I walk to the top of the ridge, above our tents, to get a good look at the Rongbuk glacier and the force of Mother Nature. The view of Mount Everest is spectacular, and every time I look up at it, I am in awe. The clouds swirl and dance around the summit in a magnificent graceful manner as if to beckon one upward into them. We all know too well, watching the dance from BC, that we must beware of those mesmerizing moments and approach this Goddess of a mountain with great caution and respect. Yaks with their loads. (Photo credit: Chris Warner, earthtrekscliming.com)
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Base Camp, Tibet. Sunday, April 18, 2004 We woke up this morning to a beautiful snow-covered landscape. It was cold, as nothing warms up until the sun rises at about 9:45 a.m. Last night at Base Camp (BC) it was well below freezing, and later on in the day we got word that Advanced Base Camp (ABC) had dropped down to -25º F during the night. Some of the teams who arrived at BC before we did were at ABC during the cold night. None of the teams have moved above ABC due to high winds on the mountain.
As I have paid for a personal Sherpa, discussion between Alex and I centered around the best way to choose which of the three Sherpas that are a part of our group should be the one to attempt to reach the summit – if and when we have that chance. We both decided that it was best to have all three Sherpas continue to support the team as a whole, and wait to make the decision until later on, perhaps as high as High Camp 3 (often called Camp 6) at 27,390 feet - the last stop before the summit. Only the one Sherpa that Alex and I will select to accompany me will continue above High Camp 3. Waiting to make the decision is advantageous for me because, if one of the Sherpas falls ill, one of the other two will be available to go. Two of the Sherpas have summited Mount Everest, while the third one has been to High Camp 3 three times. Alex pointed out that sometimes Sherpas who have been to the top are less motivated, and one who has not had the opportunity before may be very motivated. So it will be interesting to see what happens with that situation. I only hope that I am fortunate enough to have an attempt at the summit, and the luxury of selecting a Sherpa to accompany me.
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| Archived News For news from the final summit push (May 17 through May 25), return to the Mountain News page. For news from Everest for May 5 through May 16, see the Archived News-May5-May16 page. For news from Everest for April 21 through May 4, see the Archived News-April 21-May4 page. For news from Marshall for April 11th through April 17th, see the Archived News-April-11-17 page. For news from Marshall for April 5th through April 10th, see the Archived News-April-5-10 page.
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Matt
Dickinson describes the headwall, which he calls the ice wall, as follows.
In reading his explanation, it is worthwhile to note that, at the time,
Matt Dickinson had limited high altitude experience and, as he explained,
climbing the headwall was "the first time I had ever climbed on fixed
ropes." This varies significantly from Marshall's experience in climbing
fixed ropes (using mechanical ascenders or jumars), as Marshall has been
doing this kind of rope work for 10 years in adventure races such as the
Eco Challenge. In last year's Primal Quest race, the Stray Dogs jumared
up approximately 1,000 feet to reach the top of Calaveras Dome in California.
So...Matt Dickinson's description of the headwall:
side of the tail and a raven on the other-symbolizing the two clans that
were allowed to marry. After I climbed Denali in 2002, I bought this necklace
for Heather, and she wears it faithfully, every day, except when I climb
or race. Then, and only then, does she take it off and give it to me for
good luck and a reminder of home, and everything that encompasses. The
other object I had blessed was the Religious Teachers Filippini banner
that I intend to carry to the top of the world to spread the word of their
desire to “Go and Teach.” 
from
testing or from nuclear energy production in the nearby nuclear-capable
countries, such as China, India, or Pakistan. There is also a small Bulgarian
expedition next to a very large American expedition that consists of about
35 members. Unfortunately, rumor has it that close to a third of them
have already left the mountain because of an aggressive acclimation schedule
that made them ill. 
way
up and down the Rongbuk glacier a half mile away. 
