Katmandu, Nepal. Saturday, April 10, 2004

A Dream

At the age of 5, I remember sitting in front of a black and white TV at home in Greeley, Colorado. The images I saw, through the fuzz that was our best reception, were of mountain climbers struggling to summit some mountain. I didn't know which mountain it was, but it didn't matter. A rescue had just taken place, and the fingers and toes of the mountain climbers were severely frostbitten. This was all a great curiosity to my young mind. I felt removed from those images – having grown up on a dairy farm on the eastern plains of Colorado, mountain climbing was not something I could even imagine – but somehow connected to them, too. I wanted to be on that mountain. I wanted to see, feel, smell, and hear everything that those climbers were experiencing. I wanted to share the experiences of scaling a big mountain.

Soon after seeing those TV images, I learn about Mount Everest. That it is the tallest mountain in the world. I was fascinated. Then and there, I started about dreaming of climbing that highest mountain. That great mountain!

Over 45 years later…I sit here in Katmandu, trying to realize that dream.

The Club

Down the street from the hotel where were the Russian Adventure Team is staying is a bar/restaurant called the "Rum Doddle." This bar is significant, in certain circles, as mountain climbers have been coming here since before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first summited Everest on May 29, 1953. The walls inside the Rum Doddle are covered with climbing paraphernalia and signatures of over 600 people who have summited Everest. They include the names of the famous, including Hillary and Messner, and many others that became the “first” to summit under extraordinary conditions such as using no supplemental oxygen, or first ascents via the North Face, West Face, etc. The signatures are displayed on the wall, locked under glass, so no one can add a signature that isn't authentic. Once the signature is in place, a membership card is issued to the summiter, and they become a member of a very exclusive club. Those who carry the exclusive membership card get free food and drink at the Rum Doddle…and their memories of Everest…for the rest of their lives.

Some people may want compare the signatures on the wall at the Rum Doddle with the hand prints placed in wet concrete by film starts in front of Grauman's Chinese Theater on Hollywood Boulevard. But such a comparison would be a travesty. Membership in this club, signified by the signatures on the wall, differs significantly from Hollywood, as the business of mountaineering has no glamour associated with it.

More Dreaming

Sitting in the comfort of the hotel, my mind wanders back to growing up on the dairy farm. I remember cannibalizing a straw stack to make my own little world: building tunnels with tent like rooms within the bales, and scrambling up the sides of the stack, pretending that it was that great mountain!

Somehow those feelings never subsided. So, here I am again…not only on a metaphysical level, but on a physical one, ready to attempt climbing that great mountain.

It's good to be here after 45 years of waiting and dreaming.

Katmandu, Nepal. Thursday, April 8, 2004

I arrived in Katmandu after 23 hours of flight time and another half dozen hours or so of layovers at various airports. I entered the inner city of Katmandu at about six o'clock Wednesday evening, April 7th. I found it to be a bustling hub of activity. As with other Asian countries I have visited, the sights and sounds of a major city are evident. Bicycles, motorcycles, vehicles, and foot traffic all compete for their share of the city paths.

I spent most of the day checking out Katmandu, mostly at mountaineering shops. Reportedly mountaineers who have lost their baggage have been able to obtain everything they need for climbing right here. I found this to be somewhat true, but there are a lot of false labeled "knock off" clothing items substituted for real brands, so one must take care what you buy. Walking down the streets reveal farmers markets where anything can be had. Freshly butchered carcasses of various animals are hanging out front of shops, vegetables are displayed, and bakeries are present to satisfy the appetites of weary travelers.

Smoke fills the air as trash is being burned in the streets, fires are lit for cooking and warmth, and exhaust fumes are spewed from vehicles. Other sensations flood the senses: the noises of birds, vehicles, and chanting can be heard, at times, simultaneously. Smells of foods, flowers, people confuse the senses and are difficult to isolate. They are almost overwhelming.

The hotel is an oasis that is almost out of place in the heart of this city. It contains all of the comforts of home and more. A pool in the back is a stunning discovery, and somewhat upscale rooms with T.V. and air-conditioning seem…almost decadent!

The next day, on Thursday morning, our guide, Alex, and five other members of the team arrived at the hotel where we met for breakfast. I enjoyed meeting Alex and the other five Russian's on the team. It is unclear to me yet as to who is climbing, who is base camp management, and who is trekking. One thing is clear: their English is very good (much to my relief!). Tonight I hope to further discover the roles that everyone will be playing in the expedition.

One thing I did do was to confirm the rumor that Alex was responsible for obtaining sponsorship and put together a "team" that drove, and winched, a Land Rover to the top of Mount Elbrus (one of the Seven Summits, near Moscow) over a 45 day period. As Alex explained, once they got it to the top, it had become "very icy" but the professional driver that they had hired to drive it up – and down – insisted that he could indeed drive it back down mountain from the summit, which is at almost 18,500 feet. He was partly right. He did manage to drive it a few hundred feet down the mountain before he began to loose control of the vehicle. In a state of panic, he "bailed out" and let it descend down another "200 meters" (approximately 7874 feet) before it started rolling...and rolling ...destroying it completely. It now sets a few thousand feet below the summit in a wrecked heap.

After the brief breakfast conversation, Alex was off to obtain our visas for Tibet. I acquired my visa for Nepal upon arrival at the Katmandu airport. Tomorrow will be a rest and briefing day. The next day will be travel to Zangmu, elevation of 7,000 feet, on the way to Tibet and the north side of Everest. I look forward to leaving the hustle and bustle of Katmandu and getting started traveling to base camp. I'm sure after a week or so of being at base camp, I will be ready to head back to the luxuries of Katmandu, and probably will be thinking of home.

Thoughts of climbing the mountain seem to be ever present in my mind. Approximately one out of ten climbers that summit doesn't come back from Everest. It makes me think about mortality almost constantly, to the point that, for myself, I play mind games. I think about: if I do this – for example, doing a good deed for someone – I will be safe. Or, if I do that – for example, elevate myself to a high state of compassion – I will gain safe passage. Or I convince myself that all my experience will keep me out of harms' way. The reality is that respect for the mountain, and the danger it represents, must be ever present in my mind. I've got to know when to pull the plug if things aren't working out. And, I do know that there is a certain amount of just plain luck that may get me up to the top of Everest, and back down safely.

April 5, 2004

After gathering all of his gear, Marshall left for Katmandu on Monday, April 5th.

Some of Marshall's equipment, including items from The North Face (summit suit and high-altitude sleeping bag, etc.), trekking poles from Leki, mukluks from Steger Mukluks, Insulmat sleeping pad and WXtex duffle bags from Pacific Outdoor Equipment, climbing equipment from Camp USA, clothing from Exofficio, summit pack from Go Lite, and thermal undergarments and socks from Ullfrotte.

Marshall arrived at the Denver International Airport with two large WXtex duffle bags packed full of all of his clothing and equipment. Of course, he couldn't exceed the 70-pound-per-bag limit.

Marshall at the Denver airport, ready to leave for Everest.

Everything Marshall needs...for
a two month Everest expedition.

All told, Marshall had about 175 pounds of equipment. Sounds like a lot...but, remember, he's going to be gone for two months, and living in extreme conditions.

Of course, Marshall also had his carry-on: the Go Lite summit pack. You can get a lot into these packs when you need to!

One of the key pieces of equipment, the down summit suit from The North Face, went with Marshall on the airplane!

Looking Forward to Meeting the Team

With travel time and changes in time zones, Marshall won't arrive in Katmandu until Wednesday April 7th. There, he will meet up with the other members of the Russian Adventure Team, including his guide, Alexander Abramov (Alex). Marshall is looking forward to meeting Alex in person after reviewing his impressive resume (including serving as leader of successful Everest expeditions in 2000 and 2003) and hearing a few stories of Alex's wide range of abilities and accomplishments (including slaughtering and cooking a goat for last year's Everest team).

Before he left, Marshall had a chance to meet the only other American on the team, David D'Angelo, who happens to live in Boulder, CO. David works for Xexplorers Web. Look for updates on the expedition on MountEverest.net, including updates and photos from the mountain.

Marshall is excited to meet the Sherpa's that will assist the group, including the high altitude Sherpa that will accompany Marshall to the summit...if they get the chance! He is also looking forward to getting to know the rest of the team, including 5 Russians, 2 Italians, and 1 German.

Fundraising

The fundraising effort is a very important part of Marshall's expedition. He's asking for your donations to help the Religious Teachers Filippini to provide an education - along with needed food, water, clothing, and a place to live - for women and children in some of the poorest countries in the world. See the Fundraising page for more information and details of how you can donate.

Saint Lucy, a founder of the Religious Teachers Filippini, expressed her great desire "to be present in every corner of the earth." Help Marshall - by providing inspiration through you donation - with his work to help make Saint Lucy's dream come true: to carry her message to the top of the world!

Marshall with the Religious Teachers Filippini banner
that he hopes to take to the summit of Everest.

The Schedule

The general schedule for Marshall's Everest expedition, as posted on the Everest10000 Web page, is as follows.

Day 01 (April 8) Arrival at Katmandu and transfer to Hotel     

Day 02-03 (April 9-10)  In Katmandu for Tibet visa procedure

Day 04 (April 11) Drive from Katmandu to Zangmu (2350m)

Day 05 (April 12) Drive to Niylam (3750m)

Day 06 (April 13) Drive to Xegar (4200)

Day 07 (April 14) Day of rest in Xegar for acclimatization.

Day 08 (April 15) Drive to Everest BC (5200m)

Day 09-11 (April 16-18) At the Base Camp

Day 12 (April 19) Base Camp to the Interim Base Camp (6000m)

Day 13 (April 20) At the Advanced Base Camp (6500m)

Day 14-53 (April 21-May 30) Period of ascent

Day 54 (May 31) Getting off the ABC

Day 55 (June 1) Getting off the BC

Day 56 (June 2) Drive to Zangmu

Day 57 (June 3) From Zangmu to Katmandu

Day 58-59 (June 4-5) Staying in Katmandu

Day 60 (June 6) Depart from Katmandu (Marshall's flight is scheduled for June 5th)

Archived News

For news from the final summit push (May 17 through May 25), return to the Mountain News page.

For news from Everest for May 5 through May 16, see the Archived News-May 5-May 16 page.

For news from Everest for April 21 through May 4, see the Archived News-April 21-May4 page.

For news from Marshall for April 18th through April 20th, as well as updates from Heather for April 21st-22nd, 25th, and 28th, see the Archived News-April-18-20 plus Heather's updates page.

For news from Marshall for April 11th through April 17th, see the Archived News-April-11-17 page.