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Everest '04 - News from Marshall Ulrich Below are updates from Marshall's final "summit push" on Mount Everest (29,035 feet) from the north side, in Tibet, from May 17 through May 25, 2004. If you'd like to make a donation to the Religious Teachers Filippini in recognition of Marshall's successful climb to the top of the world, please see the Fundraising page. Return to the Mountain News page for updates from Marshall's attempt to climb Mount Vinson in Antarctica, as well as posting from Mount Elbrus, the highest point in Europe.
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First, Our Thanks by Heather Ulrich
To date, Marshall has completed five of the Seven Summits:
For all of his climbs, Marshall doing fundraising and respectfully asks for your support for the Religious Teachers Filippini . As always, one hundred percent of your donation will go to the deserving women and children! See the Fundraising page for more information on how you can help. Check out David's site (who summited Mount Everest with Marshall) for voice dispatches from their summit push, David's final thoughts about climbing the mountain, and some of Marshall's summit day photographs. See mounteveret.net for additional stories - including a video of the Russian National Team's historic summit via a new route straight up the North Face!! A huge THANK YOU to all of you followed along, and provided your support to Marshall...and to me. I was amazed at how many people sent e-mails, made phone calls, provided emotional support, and simply let it be known that they were thinking of - and supporting - Marshall in his Everest attempt. It is a comfort to know that there are so many good people in the world. A special thanks to Theresa Daus-Weber for sending out e-mail updates to many of you while I was in Tibet and Nepal! We also must thank Mark and Pam Macy for their undying support, friendship, and transportation to and from the airport. A special thanks also to Tom Theil of Bijou T Quest for making the summit banner, doing the Stray Dogs Everest '04 T-shirts and hats, making a special banner with some of Marshall's summit photos, and for all of his messages and support. Of course, we couldn't have gotten through it all without the support of our families, with a special thanks to my dad for supporting us and traveling with me to Nepal, Tibet, and Everest Base Camp. We had our own adventure! There are many, many more of you that provided your thoughts, prayers, support. It means more to us than we can say. Thank you! All
my best,
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Summit Day! May 25, 2004.
I slept just minutes during the night, checking my watch every few minutes, fearing that I would not wake to the alarm. At about 1:15 a.m., I woke David and started yelling across the camp for Pemba to wake up. We nervously fumbled inside the tent, with the 20 to 30 mph winds intimidating us outside.
Because of the stove situation we managed only to boil enough water to fill our bottles and get some hot fluids down, but could not cook anything due to the time restrains. So, we only ate a few cookies each – cookies which I had been carrying since the beginning of the expedition for extra fuel. Our target time to leave Camp 3 was 3:00 a.m., but by the time we finally left, it was at least 3:15 to 3:30.
The wind was strong and, as we progressed up the yellow band, I was on the one hand surprised at how warm I was in the North Face summit suit, but on the other hand my face was being pelted by driven snow, as it was dark and I could not wear my sun glasses, and I didn't have any clear eyewear. It felt very much like being in a sand storm, or being sandblasted.
So as we climbed up the yellow band, in the dark, the winds continued and I wondered if the progress we were making would be all for naught.
Two hours passed and Pemba 's headlamp went out. I carry a small "zipka" LED headlamp and it was working fine. In addition to that, I carry a spare. So, I believed that what appeared to be a problem could be resolved. We pulled the spare light out, which I had just put new batteries in at ABC three nights before, and discovered that it had switched on in my pack somehow and discharged completely. Go figure.
Fortunately, we were now on the ridge and had gone over the first step (which is roughly a third of the way) so for the next hour or less, Pemba stayed sandwiched between David and I, using our lights to illuminate the trail for him.
The whole ridge consisted of slate scree, making the trail very rough with exposure much of the time. During this time we had our crampons attached to our boots, so at times it was very sketchy and unnerving. To further complicate this situation, there were two new bodies – one still attached to a safety line, and the other just five feet off the trail, where he had apparently been looking for shelter, but found none. Along the north face there were at least a dozen (or more) small piles of fabric that were actually bodies cut loose and pushed down the side of the mountain, out of the way. The north ridge approach on Mount Everest is particularly dangerous, as above the first step it is unlikely (or impossible) to have any sort of rescue. So, those who are unfortunate enough to get injured or succumb to the altitude and perish are forevermore a part of the mountain. For me, it was eerie - seeing those bodies - but it was also a powerful reminder to take care.
This year (the past 3 weeks), on the on north side alone, the unofficial death count is 6 people. We have heard of one death on the south side.
After an unnerving ascent of the second step, we were on the final ridge and about two hours from the summit. Looking
down the second step, (Photo Credit: Marshall Ulrich, May 25, 2004)
We had only the third step, a 40-foot rock mound to scramble up, standing in front us before reaching the pyramid. All the while we were looking at the wind on the pyramid, watching it as it blew, wondering if it was too strong to summit, or perhaps it would calm when we were up over the third step, only 40 minutes from the top.
Pemba
approaching the third step (the pile of rocks directly in front of him)
with the summit approach (Photo credit: Marshall Ulrich, May 25, 2004)
The wind did not cease, but was tolerable, so we continued on up the pyramid to the false summit. Luckily, we knew that this would present itself, but wondered what some of the first people who took this route may have thought, hoping that this was the summit, only to be fooled and then presented with even more of a climb.
A rough and steep trail presents itself past the third step, which winds around the north side of the mountain, then switches back upon itself, and continues on to a snow ridge that is perpendicular to the trail. Once up on this ridge, the prayer flags reveal themselves, and it is less than 100 feet to the top. Pemba and I waited a few minutes for David, and five minutes later we were on top of the world! It was the most incredible view I have ever seen! Our summit time was approximately 10:45 a.m. on May 25th, local Tibet time (14 hours ahead of Denver time).
David
D'Angelo, Pemba Tenzing, and Marshall Ulrich on the Summit
of Mount Everest - (Photo Credit: Marshall Ulrich, May 25, 2004)
With the wind howling in the background, we got a view of the south-side approach (with no one in sight), took some snapshots, and I made a Satellite phone call to my wife Heather who was on the way to base camp. The Religious Teachers Filippini banner that I had carried all the way from Colorado to the top of Everest was proudly displayed, and I thought of the kids that I am doing the fundraising for - an inspiration for me these past 7 weeks on the mountain.
Pemba
and Marshall Ulrich proudly display the Religious
Teachers Filippini banner (Photo Credit: Marshall Ulrich, May 25, 2004) I can only hope that my summit of Everest will inspire some of you to contribute (or contribute even again) to help some of those less fortunate than ourselves. Please see the fundraising page of the Stray Dogs Web site for more information and the address of where you can send your donation.
Tears weld up in my eyes as I spoke to Heather. I had realized a dream that I carried with me for 47 years. With her support (as well as many, many others) that dream had come true. |
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Marshall
Ulrich, self portrait, (Photo Credit: Marshall Ulrich, May 25, 2004) |
Marshall
Ulrich on the Summit of Mount Everest (Photo Credit: Marshall Ulrich, May 25, 2004) |
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My heart was full of gratitude and, for a moment, I thought of everyone in my life that had supported me over the last 52 years. For whatever reason, I was graced with being on the top of Everest. I will never know the reason that I was given this gift. I do know that those who care about me and love me were with me in spirit, and that made it especially significant. Something that I will surely never forget.
My
memento left on the Summit of Mount Everest: (Photo Credit: Marshall Ulrich, May 25, 2004) As we turned and walked away from the summit, we reminded each other to be careful, that we were only half done and needed to return to Camp 3 as soon as possible.
We did indeed take care. It had taken us about 7 1/2 hours to travel from Camp 3 to the summit, and only 3 hours to descend back to Camp 3. I continued down Camp 2, then Camp 1, and all the way to ABC. All told, it had taken me 16 hour to climb from Camp 3 to the summit, then all the way back down safely to ABC.
The next day, I packed and continued on to I Base Camp where Heather was waiting at the end of the glacier for me. There was a huge sigh of relief as I fell into her arms and her into mine. I was grateful for my success, and also for the fact that I would never have to return to this mountain again. This gave me great comfort.
Those who suffer the most while we are away from home are our loved ones—so with this in my mind, I still question if it was worth the risk and appreciate the fact that I was granted two gifts: first and foremost my family; then I was graced with the chance to climb Mount Everest.
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Camp 2 to Camp 3 – Final Preparations. May 24, 2004.
Getting
up and moving this morning was not a pleasant experience. The wind was
still blowing about 30 miles per hour, and the temperature was hovering,
I would guess, around minus 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature,
coupled with the wind, made it less than motivating to get out of the
tent and moving.
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Camp 1 to Camp 2. May 23, 2004.
After a somewhat slow start to our
morning, we finally started out from High Camp 1 at the North Col and
headed up to Camp 2. The route goes straight up a 35 to 40 degree snow
field that goes on for at least a half mile. It is a strenuous climb,
even using supplemental oxygen. I used a jumar (a device that attaches
to a rope that locks as it is slid forward on the rope, enabling a person
to pull on it to aid in climbing) in one hand and a Leki pole in the other
hand. In some places it was easier to toe kick in, set my foot, and pull
myself up. This was done over and over again until, it seemed, I developed
a good rhythm and technique. My oxygen was set at one and one half liters
per hour, and even though I was working hard, I felt reasonably good all
the way up.
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ABC to Camp 1 at the North Col. May 22, 2004.
Today
we traveled from ABC to Camp 1 at the North Col on our final summit push.
David D'Angelo, Pemba Tenzing, and I met for breakfast, made final preparations,
and we were off to the North Col around 11:00 a.m. I
felt much better than the previous two times that I was at the Col , and
spent the night hydrating and trying to eat as much as I could. This was
all done off of oxygen, as when resting, the body needs significantly
less oxygen than when active. Surprisingly, I slept well and David and
Pemba likewise. Tomorrow
we will head to Camp 2 at 25,400 feet. If I am able to succeed, this will
be a new altitude record for me. I feel great, and just hope that tomorrow
will go as well as today. I have had a fear of altitude since I did the
Raid Gauloises adventure race in Tibet at 17,000 feet when I suffered
terribly from altitude sickness after starting off hard and fast on the
bike leg, and it still lingers in my mind. Not to mention that climbing
up and down to ABC, Camp 1, and attempting to reach as high as Camp 2
as a part of the acclimation process, has beat me down over the last few
weeks.
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One More Day at ABC. May 21, 2004.
This will be the last update directly from me, as we will be leaving tomorrow morning for our summit push. Hopefully my wife, Heather, will be able to give updates in my absence as she will be in touch by satellite phone while driving to Base Camp, and by radio once she arrives. She is expected to arrive in BC on the 25th or 26th. Needless to say, I am excited about that!
The other development is about Dorje, one of the Sherpas who has been on Everest at least twice but has never had the opportunity to summit. Given this fact, and the fact that Alex knows how important it is to him to make a summit attempt, Dorje was offered the opportunity to join Alex's team. Dorje was very excited about the offer, and left this morning – along with Alex, Arkadiy, and Illya – to Camp 1. Pemba Tenzing, my Sherpa, has summited twice and is extremely strong. Despite his previous summits, he also is very excited and I think that I made a good choice with him. It gives me a certain amount of security having him along with David and me.
Because Alex's group was a delayed a day due to weather, instead of being two days behind them David, Pemba, and I will only be only one day back. So everything must go well for both groups for any of us to hope to summit. If we leave here tomorrow, as planned, that would put us at Camp 1 the night of the May 22nd, Camp 2 on the 23rd, Camp 3 on the 24th, and hopefully an attempt on May 25th. According to the forecast, the 25th looks good for weather. And, the morning of the 26th may be acceptable. But, we don't want to take a chance, so we hope to stick to our plan of just one night at each of the high camps, not only due to the weather, but also due to the fact that, as you go higher in altitude your body just continues to deteriorate, and simply doesn't recover. This is especially true once you reach “the death zone” above 27,000 feet, so named not because of the deaths that occur there (although that's what most people think, and seems appropriate on some level), but because your body literally dies a little bit with each moment that you starve it of oxygen. Nothing is meant to live above 27,000 feet. Even using supplemental oxygen does not completely stop this effect. So, in addition to weather, limiting our time up high certainly gives us extra motivation to (hopefully) stick to the plan of a final summit push on the 25 th .
My sleep pattern is totally fouled up. Although I got a good night's sleep last night, the prior nights I had very little. Tonight will be my last night here ABC before heading further up the mountain, and hopefully I will sleep well – as I know I won't sleep well at 23,000 feet and above. The same principle applies to eating. When we were down in Xegar I regained some of the weight that I lost, but I know that it is very hard to take calories in up high. So, tonight's dinner will probably be the last good meal that I will have for four to five nights.
I am very apprehensive about climbing. The weather has been spotty, and David and I have been looking for a good window. Other expeditions have had limited success, mostly because of the weather, and some because of some old fixed ropes that needed to be replaced. So, it has probably been a blessing that we have been delayed here and there (mostly because of the weather). We have been acutely aware of the rope situation, and have been gathering as much information as we can. A larger expedition is just a head of us and they have been responsible for fixing and upgrading ropes. They, too, have taken a conservative approach and so to some extent we have been waiting for their "cue." Our primary goal is to be safe.
Currently it is snowing lightly, but there is a high pressure system moving in and the next five days should be mostly good climbing with low winds and little precipitation. So we will start in the morning, continue to watch the forecast, and continue climbing only if things look good.
I have my equipment organized, as well as a small amount of food that I will use while I am climbing. Most of the food, for evenings and mornings, is at Camps 1, 2 and 3. Oxygen is in place at the camps, as well as tents and sleeping bags, so little else is needed. Now it will be just a question of putting one foot in front of the other.
Hopefully the mountain will allow us safe passage to the top of the world.
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ABC Rest Day. May 20, 2004.
This morning we awoke to snowfall that put somewhat of a crimp in our plans. Alex, Arkadiy, and Illya were scheduled to head up the mountain today, the 20 th ; however because of the snowfall, they thought it best to cancel it until tomorrow and see what happens with the weather. So, in order to allow space between the two groups leaving, and after checking the weather report, David and I decided to wait until the 22nd to leave. Now if we stick to our plan, we will be within a day of the first group. Hopefully we will be able to stick to this schedule. Of course, nothing is for certain on Everest, and it's always a question as to whether or not anything will go as planned.
There are many people scattered up and down the mountain (mostly between Camp 1 and Camp 3). While it's snowing here today, the weather higher up can be quite different than down here, so it is very likely that there will be some summit attempts today. Vladimir (who is climbing without oxygen) called last night via radio and reported that he was going to make a summit attempt despite the fact that he was having trouble holding fluids in. At about 2:00 a.m. this morning he departed Camp 3 and made a summit attempt, but was turned back – weak from having spent so much time up high without adequate hydration and, of course, limited oxygen above 27,000 feet. He started back down from Camp 3 at about 10:00 a.m. and we expect him back in camp later this afternoon.
I met with my Sherpa, Pemba , this morning and we went over the details of our summit attempt game plan. David will be a part of our group, so he also attended and had some good things to say. We discussed appropriate clothing, the route, time it would take between points, when and where we would use oxygen. Maybe most importantly, it was a time to get to know each other a little better. We are approaching the climb very conservatively, and Pemba will be with us all the way. We also found out from a reasonably reliable source that new ropes had indeed been set, higher up, over the last couple of days. And, we learned that a second ladder may have been set in place at the second step. If indeed all of this is true, it would make for a very safe route.
The rest of the day will be spent going through my gear and picking out the necessities, upgrading my crampons, and making sure I have everything that I need.
Last night, I only slept a couple of hours, so I will try and get a nap in this afternoon. Not sleeping well is normal when moving up the mountain and experiencing big changes in altitude. The good news is that I will probably adjust to this altitude over the next couple of days, and will be able to sleep fairly well. The bad news is that, because we are going to higher altitudes, I probably should expect very little sleep at the high camps.
As I write this, Heather and her father should be landing in Katmandu . For them, the next week will be spent obtaining their Chinese visas; flying into Lhasa, Tibet; obtaining their Everest grasslands permit and doing a bit of sightseeing; then driving to base camp acclimating slowly along the way. I am really looking forward to having them at Base Camp. It will be, no doubt very motivating for me, not to mention the fact that I miss my wife !
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BC to ABC. May 19, 2004.
This morning we woke up at Base Camp, got up, and prepared to depart for our approximately week-long “summit push.” At about 11:00 we headed off to ABC for the fourth, and hopefully last, time. By the time the expedition is over we will have hiked over 100 miles on this trail from BC To ABC alone. Climbing Mount Everest is a long, slow process, which includes “climbing” portions of the mountain over and over again.
As we walked along the trail what was most apparent was the thawing that had taken place over the week-and-half we were off the mountain enjoying the “civilization” of Xegar and Dingry. There was water running rapidly over, under, and around the glacier ice, flowing down the valley creating a river that winds its down and all the way through BC. This river of glacier melt water is probably running at triple the volume than last time I walked up the Ronbuk glacier towards ABC.
As we were hiking we had to hop over the many winding, and ever-widening, streams of water that snake their way down through the ice and rock, always seeking the path of least resistance – a challenge for us that made the trip more interesting. As we approached approximately 20,000 feet, I was attempting to jump over yet another one of streams and happened to step on a rock that gave way, dumping me into the icy water up to my knees. Fortunately, I had my Ulfrotte wool socks on and, although my feet were somewhat uncomfortable, the last few miles up to ABC were tolerable. Still, as soon as I arrived in camp, I changed into dry socks and put on my Steger mukluks, which warmed my feet rapidly. Appreciating small comforts on the mountain are a key to keeping your sanity.
On this trip up I also changed my breathing technique from deep breaths to an almost hyperventilating-style of very rapid, shallow breaths. I was very surprised to discover that this helped immensely, and I finished the long uphill hike feeling much better than the prior two times that I had done the trail. I was happy and relieved to feel so good at 21,450 feet. I remember when we hiked up to ABC for the first time – having to make a stop half way at Intermediate Base Camp – that I had a headache and was very short of breath. Today, I feel very good up here.
After checking the weather forecast for the next five or six days we are going to wait until morning – until we can receive further updates – to see if, in fact, our hopeful summit day of the 24th is still going to work out.
After dinner, I crawled into a noticeably colder tent hoping to get a good nights' sleep.
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Summit Plans – Base Camp. Tuesday, May 18, 2004
Today will be our last day at base camp, as David and I have gotten word that the weather should be good through the rest of the week and into the weekend – with the exception of a "spike" in wind velocity on Saturday. So, to take advantage of what should be a good weather window, we have made plans for our summit attempt!
The
tentative schedule looks like this: Saturday, May 22nd – travel from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (25,400 feet) Sunday, May 23rd – travel from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (27,390 feet) Monday,
May 24th or Tuesday, May 25th – possible
summit days (29,035 feet)
Alex, giving it the thumbs up! (Photo
credit: David D'Angelo)
At any rate, I am nervous to see how well I will "fare" at the higher altitudes, after struggling a bit the last time I was above the North Col on May 8th, when I reached approximately 23,950 feet. Hopefully, I will have better results this time, and will do okay at the higher altitudes when I will be using supplemental oxygen – starting when sleeping at Camp 2, and when climbing and sleeping from there on up the mountain.
Then,
I look around at other people who have great health and hear them complain.
Well, that just ain't right.
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Back at Base Camp. Monday, May 17, 2004
This morning we took 4 X 4's to Base Camp. It was an interesting ride. As we approached camp, more and more I became aware of the fact that in a few days we would be climbing again. It was a bitter sweet feeling as the rest takes you out of reality and puts your mind at ease. But, the sight of the mountain brought me back to reality quickly!
As we pulled into camp everyone had returned and was in the process of moving the large yellow "submarine" tent. Because it was positioned in a drainage of sorts, which had looked to be totally dry, turned out be quite moist and had gotten the floor of the tent wet. So, that was the first thing that we had to do.
The camp (other than the tent) looks the same. The Mountain was masked in clouds (perhaps she is not ready to reveal her secrets to me…quite yet?). Humidity is supposed to be moving in over the next few days and then a bit of wind on Saturday.
Summit Attempts Next was a discussion about the summit attempts, who would be on what teams, and tentative summit dates. It was very diplomatic and everyone's opinion was taken into account. It was determined that, by splitting up into three groups, it would give the expedition as a whole a better chance that at least one group might hit good weather, and maybe even two…or (if we are very lucky) all three.
My greatest concern was Pemba, the Sherpa who will accompany me (and David) up the mountain. It seems that one of the other Sherpas has come down with a very sore throat and is sick. All of the Sherpas are at ABC and my concern is that Pemba will have no rest. So, tomorrow he will probably come down to BC.
David and I are now checking the weather and trying to determine the best date to leave BC. Right now, we're thinking that we would leave the 20th of May. IF that is the case, that would mean we would leave on the 20th and arrive at ABC the same day. We would rest one day (the 21st) at ABC, then go to North Col/High Camp 1 (the 22nd), Camp 2 (the 23rd), Camp 3 (the 24th) and hopefully, if all goes well, the summit on the 25th or 26th.
Vladmir has gone to ABC today (the 17th) and plans to summit on or about the 20th or 21st. He is going without oxygen, and felt ready to go, so he did. We have heard that someone summited yesterday from the north side, but we have not been able to verify that. We know that people have summited from the south side, as the Russians climbing the north wall reported that oxygen tanks were thrown down. They heard them clinging against the rock wall as they went by! I can't imagine getting hit by one of those. Yikes.
Plans? I know that it all comes down to fitness and the weather. They both make me nervous; but, no doubt, anyone who has been sitting in this same situation, where I am now (contemplating an Everest summit attempt) has experienced the same feelings.
At any rate, plans are being made—which could change, of course (this is Everest after all)—depending on what is good for the expedition and the team as a whole; and I like that.
So it looks like in three to four days we could be climbing again, and that suits me well. Too much more time in BC, ABC, and the other camps would drive me nuts. But, if we have plans to move forward…that will make things easier to take.
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| Other News Return to the Mountain News page for updates from Vinson in Antarctica and links to posting from Mount Elbrus, the highest point in Europe. For news from Marshall for May 5 through May 16, see the Archived News May 5-May16 page. For news from Marshall for April 21 through May 4, see the Archived News April 21-May 4 page. For news from Marshall for April 18th through April 20th, as well as updates from Heather for April 21st-22nd, 25th, and 28th, see the Archived News-April-18-20 plus Heather's updates page. For news from Marshall for April 11th through April 17th, see the Archived News-April-11-17 page. For news from Marshall for April 5th through April 10th, see the Archived News-April4-5 page.
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After
changing oxygen bottles at "mushroom rock" (a landmark over
halfway on the north side of the ridge along the trail), we continued
on until we hit the second step. Here, there is a ladder which is secured
with rope that climbs up about 20 feet, with exposure of 10,000 feet to
the north. 
